Bankhead is a ghost town, near Banff in Alberta's Rocky Mountains. It was founded 100 years ago as a mining town, the coal dug out of the side of Cascade Mountain. Twenty years later the mine closed, the town died, its buildings sawn off their foundations and taken away, its pioneers dispersed with their memories. Today, the slagheaps remain, and the stumps and holes of the once busy buildings. Not far away, through the brush, are the scatterings of the camp where the Chinese workers lived. Coyotes and cougars lope in the grass in an arena surrounded by mountains, with the freshness of nearby Lake Minnewanka exciting the air.
I have visited this quiet disquieting place many, many times. For me Bankhead is more compelling, more evocative than the Forum of Rome. Its special meaning for me is partly because I come from a mining area (most of my paternal ancestors took part in the Jarrow March in the 30s), whose own working-class culture and the very buildings themselves have also disappeared. I find new thoughts waiting for me every time I visit here, about all our pasts and possible futures. Spiritually, it is encouraging to walk Bankhead's coaldusty walkways in rain, sunshine or snowfall. Here it is easier to believe that the Human World will abandon its prevailing concerns and find better things to do.
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Graves of the Pioneers
Strangers march from all directions to the graves of the pioneers: snaggled crosses in a square of stones. Ghosts flit but have lost their curiosity, though their thoughts do churn. Too late, complains one visitor, to apprehend an appreciation of other lives. Identity must be redefined, the strangers agree. They traipse away in all directions, travelling light to eternal life. |
For the history of Bankhead, see Ben Gadd's book "Bankhead: The Twenty Year Town".
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